Govardhana Parikrama

Dāna-ghāṭī

Dāna-ghāṭī is situated in the middle of Govardhana on the present-day road between Mathurā and Kāmyavana. Even today, a toll must be paid to pass through here. At the time of Kṛṣṇa’s pastimes, Kṛṣṇa became a toll collector and performed dāna-līlā, or a toll pastime, with the gopīs through loving quarrels and sarcasm. This pastime has been beautifully described in Dāna-kelī-kaumudī, Dāna-kelī-cintāmaṇi and other books of the Gauḍīya gosvāmīs.

Once, on the bank of Govinda-kuṇḍa, Śrī Bhāgurī Ṛṣi was performing a sacrifice for the pleasure of the Supreme Lord. The cowherd boys and girls were bringing ingredients for the sacrifice from distant places. From the other side of Dāna-ghāṭī, Śrīmatī Rādhikā and Her sakhīs were also bringing yoghurt, milk, butter and various kinds of milk-sweets, such as rabaḍī. Śrī Kṛṣṇa, along with Subala, Madhumaṅgala and other sakhās, obstructed their path and forcibly demanded toll-tax, and the sakhās and gopīs began to taunt each other.

Standing in His enchanting threefold-bending form, Śrī Kṛṣṇa mischievously asked the gopīs, “What are you carrying?”

“Milk, yoghurt and butter for Bhāgurī Ṛṣi’s sacrifice,” they replied.

Madhumaṅgala’s mouth started to water upon the mere mention of butter. “Quickly pay the toll-tax and move on,” he said.

“What toll-tax?” Lalitā angrily asked. “We have never paid any toll-tax before.”

“You can pass only after paying toll-tax,” Kṛṣṇa insisted.

“Since when have You become the toll collector here?” Śrīmatījī asked. “Did You inherit this place from Your father?”

“Don’t be so insolent,” He replied. “I am Vṛndāvaneśvara, the ruler of the kingdom of Vṛndāvana.”

“How is that?”

“Vṛndā is My wedded wife,” Kṛṣṇa asserted. “The property of the wife is also the property of the husband. Vṛndāvana is the kingdom of Vṛndā-devī, and therefore it is My kingdom.”

“Really?” Lalitā answered haughtily. “We have never heard anything about this. Let us ask Vṛndā right now.” She turned to Vṛndā. “Vṛndā, is this ‘black one’ your husband?”

“Never!” Vṛndā flared in disgust. “I have no relation with this lying debauchee. Previously this was my kingdom, but I have given it to Vṛndāvaneśvarī Śrīmatī Rādhikā.” All the sakhīs burst into laughter, which slightly embarrassed Śrī Kṛṣṇa. Nonetheless, He was determined to collect the toll-tax. After this love-quarrel the gopīs exchanged the toll-tax of prema at Dāna-nivartana-kuṇḍa, some distance from Dāna-ghāṭī. To find out more about this pastime, you can read Dāna-kelī-kaumudī and Dāna-kelī-cintāmaṇi.

Pūñcharī

Pūñcharī marks the southern border of Govardhana. We have previously said that Govardhana’s form resembles a cow, but it can also be likened to a peacock. This part, Pūñcharī, is raised high like the peacock’s tail (pūñcha). Parikramā of Govardhana’s eastern side is completed here, and from here parikramā of the western side begins. Apsarā-kuṇḍa and Navala-kuṇḍa are situated here.

Surabhi-kuṇḍa

Surabhi-kuṇḍa is filled with clean, sweet water. It lies on the right-hand side of the parikramā path, somewhat further along than Rāghava Paṇḍita’s cave. On Indra’s request, Surabhī bathed Śrī Govinda at Govinda-kuṇḍa with the milk from her udder. Later, out of a strong desire to have darśana of Śrī Kṛṣṇa’s cow herding pastimes, and especially of the Divine Couple Śrī Rādhā-Kṛṣṇa’s confidential pastimes in the nikuñjas, Surabhī dwelt here for the duration of Śrī Kṛṣṇa’s manifest pastimes in Vraja. Mahārāja Vajranābha established this Surabhi-kuṇḍa in her memory. By bathing and performing ācamana here, all one’s sins, offences and unwanted desires (anarthas) are dispelled and one obtains vraja-prema.

Jatīpurā

Jatīpurā is where Śrī Mādhavendra Purī lived and performed bhajana. When the deity of Śrī Nāthajī manifested Himself, He was placed on top of Govardhana Hill. Mādhavendra Purī performed the abhiṣeka and annakūṭa festival of Śrī Nāthajī here. After entrusting the worship and service of Śrī Nāthajī to his disciples, Mādhavendra Purī then went to Purī-dhāma on the order of Śrī Nāthajī, to bring sandalwood and camphor. When he arrived at Remunā, the deity of Gopīnāthajī stole a pot of sweet-rice for him to taste. For this reason Gopīnātha is called Khīra-corā Gopīnātha, thief (cora) of the sweet-rice (khīra). When Mādhavendra Purī was returning from Jagannātha Purī with sandalwood and camphor, he received an order from Śrī Nāthajī of Govardhana in a dream. Śrī Nāthajī told him that by grinding the sandalwood and camphor, and smearing it on the body of Khīra-corā Gopīnātha every day for one month, His own body would become cool. It is not known whether Mādhavendra Purī returned to Govardhana or not. His samādhi lies in Remunā near the temple of Khīra-corā Gopīnātha.